Bahama Impressions

"Either you decide to stay in the shallow end of the pool or you go out in the ocean."  Christopher Reeve

I've thought about this cruise for years.  John and I have talked about it for years.  I'm not sure when we began talking about it as my retirement trip but sometime long ago.  We did alot of planning.  We got our HAM licenses.  We bought the Explorer charts (reputedly, the most accurate).  We studied cruiser blogs.  We re-equipped the boat.  We read guide books. We provisioned, possibly, overprovisioned.  We set a sail plan.  But, nonetheless, I was still unprepared for this journey. 

I expected the poverty of small islands; I did not expect the mega-yachts that dominate many anchorages and marinas.  I had seen hundreds coming down the ICW so I should not have been surprised, but I was.  The contrast between their mass and most other boats is stark. 

I knew Bimini would be small and weathered but I was unprepared for the extensive and on-going development on the north coast of North Bimini.  Condos, vacation homes and deep sea fishing boats were everywhere.  This gated community sat separate and apart from the native towns.  

I was quite surprised when our friend, Michael Brenner, when diving for conch in Bimini, actually came back to the dink with four.  He subsequently extracted the conch and made a marvelous curried conch stew.  His cooking skills did not surprise me.

I expected the significant waves and wind but I did not expect the relentlessness of the Grand Bahama Bank where we anchored with no land in sight.  It was both exhilarating and terrifying.  I loved it.  Despite wave after wave that rocked us through the night, I found it amazing. 

I had been warned by too many cruisers about safety issues in Nassau to be anything other than surprised by the inviting beauty of the main channel shoreline with palms, shrubs and bright flowers. 

While snorkeling at the Exuma Land and Sea Park,  I was startled by a school of fish (were they fish?) that were about seven inches long, had a pointy end and a bulbous end with what looked liked a ruffle all around, that swam upright.  They turned perfectly clear from a deep purple when I swam closer.  I truly had never seen anything like it and later learned from my friendd, Susan Baker, our Minister of Common Sense (a story in itself), that they were Luminous Squid.

I was unprepared to have my breath taken away--as I climbed Boo Boo Hill to see numerous blowholes--and turned and looked at Llyrical sitting gently on her mooring.  How lovely she looked with her distinctive blue hull.  I felt proud and happy.

Conversely, I did not expect to be the tiny little sailboat--at forty feet, no less--amidst a village of mega-yachts, as we spent the night on Staniel Cay so Michael and Susan could take the plane to Nassau and home. 

After tasting Bahamas marinas, I was shocked by the quaint beauty of the one at Sampson Cay.  It has wonderful surrounding beaches, great grilling and picnic areas, many trails that allow for 360 degree views of all the surrounding islands. And docks that are spacious and with electricity that works.  Oh, and, yes, there are shore showers and laundry.

I knew John was an excellent sailor and watchful Captain but I did not remember his extensive knowledge of winds, waves and weather systems.  He is truly gifted at this craft.

And now I know, as we rock gently, hunkered down for incoming weather, that over the next several weeks, there will be more unexpected discoveries--some delightful, some frightening, some sad and some purely amazing.  Sandra