April 7: Nassau to Allan's Cay, Exumas

"Life is an uncharted ocean. The cautious mariner must needs take Many soundings ere he conduct his barque to port in safety." Unknown

We set a leisurely departure from Nassau in order to ensure that the sun would be well overhead leaving about 0900. I radioed Nassau Harbor Control of our intentions and they approved our departure. Departure from the marina went according to experience if not our plan.

With Sandra at the wheel and the wind on our nose, we hoped to back to starboard and head stylishly out into the channel. But then we discovered that the boat next to us had dropped a dock line over our port stern line, jamming it firmly in place. By the time I wrestled with the line a while and our neighbor came out and freed it, our plan was lost. In any case, we got away from the slip... and off we went!

Today was the day that we would cross the Yellow Bank, a 6-12 foot shoal area dotted with coral heads. We selected a route to Allan's Cay, the best looking of several alternative courselines that are recommended for crossing the bank. Allan's Cay is renowned in the Exumas for its population of iguanas and a small anchorage with 360 degree protection. It serves as the first stop in the Exumas for many cruisers and we felt it would serve us well.


We departed to the east, setting a course for Porgee Rock. I watched anxiously for hazards, but other than ambiguity, there seemed to be none. The channel was wide if not well-marked. Excursion boats taking people out for a view of reefs through glass bottoms, transparent kayaks or snorkel  or dive boats helped make our route clear. Along the way, I set some waypoints up on the plotter. Note to self: I need to set up waypoints the day before we travel.

The wind was blowing briskly out of the east so sails were not an option. It was another one of those days where we motored up to the top of a 4-5 foot wave before falling bow first into the trough. With only 35 miles to travel, we proceeded on a leisurely but careful crossing of the bar. As we approached the shoal, we slowed the boat and Michael put on a harness and tether and went forward with a walkie talkie to serve as a lookout from the bow. His job was to warn of coral heads. The coral heads looked like dark voids lurking just under the beautiful aqua waters. From his position, standing behind the furled headsail, Michael would report. "200 yards at 11 o'clock". Now 150 yards at 10 o'clock." As our bow buried in the waves, spray would fly up twenty feet in the air on either side of him. "Eeeeehaaaaa, "he would yell.... "200 yards  at 1 o'clock. 100 yards dead ahead." At the wheel, I made minor course corrections to ensure that we went around or between the heads. In 45 minutes, we were through and back to deeper water.

The approach to the anchorage was fairly easy if tense for me. Two tongues of deep water with a sand bar between ran north and south between two islands. I tried the eastern channel first puttering past the beach. The crew of a small motorboat was on the beach feeding the iguanas. We had an excellent view of them as we moved up the channel. Having heard that the iguanas bite, we decided that we had seen them close enough. The north end of the channel shoaled quickly, so after touching the keel to a sandbar, I reversed and proceeded to the western channel where we anchored without further event. Michael and I put on snorkel and mask and confirmed that the anchor was well set, and I gave Murphy her first ride to shore in the dinghy. Somewhat surprisingly, she decided Michael needed help and launched herself into the water after him. Prior to this trip, Murphy has NOT been a water baby. After swimming over to him she apparently had second thoughts and turned and headed back for the dink where I hoisted her out of the water and proceeded to a small beach for her to do her business. Later, we celebrated our arrival in the Exumas with a bottle of bubbly as we watched the sun dropping down to the horizon. John